Crédits : Charlène Campos. Translation: Jill Harry. Pictures: RR
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Gabrielle Chanel was the first designer to liberate women from the stranglehold of clothing. We also owe her the first collection of "haute joaillerie" in history. Presented in 1932 in the drawing-rooms of the Hôtel Rohan-Montbazon in Paris, her "Bijoux de Diamants" collection up-ended the rules of traditional jewellery: first, through the choice of the term "collection", reserved until then for "haute couture", then the presentation of the jewels (some missing a clasp, others transformable) on wax busts. 90 years later, CHANEL honours this important year in her career with its new collection of "haute joaillerie 1932". Re-interpreting symbols of the comet, the sun and moon, it takes up the astral theme of the original collection. Sparkling diamonds rub shoulders with colourful stones such as sapphires, rubies, opals, spinels, tanzanites etc. in 77 spectacular creations. The centrepiece is the Allure Céleste necklace with its amazing sapphire of 55.55 carats, a nod and a wink to Gabrielle Chanel's lucky number.
For the past 10 years or so, eminent jewellers on Place Vendôme have presented their collections at the same time as those dedicated to "haute couture" during Fashion Week. Some couturiers even invite jewellers onto the catwalks to adorn their models with their precious creations, as was the case on two occasions staged by Italian designer Giambattista Valli and Chopard. Through its Precious Lace collection, the Swiss jeweller reasserts the bonds linking "haute joaillerie" to "haute couture". A real ode to the art of lace making, it reproduces its tiniest details with the finest precision thanks to the expertise of its jewellery craftsmen. The motif of the Precious Lace collection thus echoes the arabesques, undulations and scalloped edges of the fine lace of yesteryear in a stylised flower called "Mini-Froufrou", this year further embellished by the radiance of the ruby. Halfway between "joaillerie fine" and "haute joaillerie", Precious Lace offers an elegant but laid-back way of wearing precious stones.
For Dior, the worlds of high fashion and jewellery go hand-in-hand. For her last collection of "haute joaillerie", Victoire de Castellane, Head of Artistic Direction for Dior Joaillerie for over two decades, explores the "galon" in all its… coutures! Galons Dior thus re-interprets these sumptuous braids and trimmings in a collection of 81 one-off pieces, in which precious stones cut in a multitude of geometric shapes intertwine, interlock and twirl around in all elegance, like delicate snips of material. You will perhaps have the chance to get a glimpse of them on the first floor of the historic boutique at 30 avenue Montaigne in Paris, which recently re-opened after two years of renovation. This new shrine to luxury comprised of a boutique, a museum, a restaurant and pastry shop, plus the couture and jewellery workshops, celebrates the fascinating creativity and expertise of the fashion house created by Monsieur Dior in 1946.
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